Identifying Vintage Fabrics
Fabric width, measured selvage to selvage, can give a general idea as to age of the material. Generally, 24" and 30" widths indicate the fabric was manufactured before 1930 or so. By the early 1930's narrow widths were replaced by 36″ to 39″ for most dressmaking cottons and by the early 60s the standard was 42″ to 44". The exact time of the change-over varies, as manufacturers updated their looms over a period of years.
Note that these generalizations do not hold true for Asian fabrics, which are still commonly produced in narrower widths.
Color can also be helpful in dating fabrics. A beginning discussion of colors can be found at Fabric Dating References.
Note that these generalizations do not hold true for Asian fabrics, which are still commonly produced in narrower widths.
Color can also be helpful in dating fabrics. A beginning discussion of colors can be found at Fabric Dating References.
Fiber Burn Test Chart
You can determine fabric content by burning a small snippet and comparing your observations with the chart. Click on image for full-size version.
I'll add that in my experience, silk appears to bubble as it burns. The beads that are produced look hard, but crush easily between your fingers. I think the burning silk smells a bit like urine- not as strong and distinctive as burning wool. The smell of burning linen is gentler than with cotton.
